Dog Paw Granny Square Crochet Paw Print Square Pattern

This dog paw granny square combines a warm ivory solid crochet square with a raised dark-brown paw print made from five separate appliqué pieces. The simple two-color design keeps the paw easy to recognize while giving the finished square a soft, dimensional look.

The square is worked from the center outward in joined double-crochet rounds, then finished with a single-crochet edging. The large paw pad is shaped in turned half-double-crochet rows, while the four matching toe pads are worked in joined rounds and sewn securely to the finished square.

Project at a glance

Materials

• Light worsted or medium-weight smooth yarn in warm ivory for the square
• A small amount of matching-weight yarn in dark espresso, charcoal brown, or deep chocolate brown for the paw
• 4 mm crochet hook
• Yarn needle for assembly and weaving in ends
• Scissors
• Blocking pins and blocking mat, optional but useful

A smooth plied yarn works especially well because the individual double-crochet posts and the rounded edges of the paw remain easy to see. Use the same yarn weight for both colors so the toe pads and large paw pad stay in proportion to the square.

Exact gauge is not critical for this motif. Aim for a fabric that lies flat and feels substantial enough to support the appliqués without becoming stiff. If your stitches are very loose, moving down one hook size is preferable to making the appliqués floppy.

Stitches and abbreviations

• MR – magic ring
• ch – chain
• sp – space
• sl st – slip stitch
• sc – single crochet
• hdc – half double crochet
• dc – double crochet
• hdc2tog – half-double-crochet two stitches together
• st/sts – stitch/stitches
• RS – right side

To make an hdc2tog, yarn over, insert the hook into the next stitch and pull up a loop, yarn over, insert the hook into the following stitch and pull up a loop, then yarn over and pull through all five loops on the hook. One decrease remains.

Before you start

The ivory square is worked in joined rounds with the RS facing throughout; do not turn between rounds. The beginning ch 2 does not count as a dc, the beginning ch 1 does not count as an sc or hdc, and the joining slip stitch never counts as a stitch.

At the beginning of each new square round, slip stitch forward into the next corner space before starting the round. These travel stitches are not included in the stitch count.

The paw pieces are made separately. Leave a generous sewing tail after the final round or edging of each dark-brown piece.

Crochet pattern

Ivory solid granny square

With warm ivory yarn, make an MR.

R1: Ch 2, work 3 dc in the ring, ch 2, [3 dc in the ring, ch 2] × 3. Pull the ring closed and join with a sl st to the first dc. Do not turn. (12 dc, 4 ch-2 corner spaces)

Sl st in the next 2 dc and into the next ch-2 corner space.

R2: Ch 2, work (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in the same corner space, dc in each of the next 3 dc, [(2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in the next corner space, dc in each of the next 3 dc] × 3. Join with a sl st to the first dc. (28 dc, 4 ch-2 corner spaces)

Sl st in the next dc and into the next ch-2 corner space.

R3: Ch 2, work (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in the same corner space, dc in each of the next 7 dc, [(2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in the next corner space, dc in each of the next 7 dc] × 3. Join with a sl st to the first dc. (44 dc, 4 ch-2 corner spaces)

Sl st in the next dc and into the next ch-2 corner space.

R4: Ch 2, work (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in the same corner space, dc in each of the next 11 dc, [(2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in the next corner space, dc in each of the next 11 dc] × 3. Join with a sl st to the first dc. (60 dc, 4 ch-2 corner spaces)

Sl st in the next dc and into the next ch-2 corner space.

R5: Ch 2, work (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in the same corner space, dc in each of the next 15 dc, [(2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in the next corner space, dc in each of the next 15 dc] × 3. Join with a sl st to the first dc. (76 dc, 4 ch-2 corner spaces)

Sl st in the next dc and into the next ch-2 corner space.

R6: Ch 2, work (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in the same corner space, dc in each of the next 19 dc, [(2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in the next corner space, dc in each of the next 19 dc] × 3. Join with a sl st to the first dc. (92 dc, 4 ch-2 corner spaces)

Single-crochet border

Sl st in the next dc and into the next ch-2 corner space.

R7: Ch 1, work 3 sc in the same corner space, sc in each of the next 23 dc, [3 sc in the next corner space, sc in each of the next 23 dc] × 3. Join with a sl st to the first sc. (104 sc)

Fasten off and weave in the ivory ends. Lightly block the square before adding the paw pieces if the corners need a little encouragement to sit flat.

Large central paw pad

With dark brown yarn, ch 15. The large pad is worked back and forth in turned rows. Ch 1 at the beginning of a row does not count as a stitch.

Row 1: Hdc in the second ch from the hook and in each remaining ch across. Turn. (14 hdc)

Row 2: Ch 1, 2 hdc in the first st, hdc in each of the next 12 sts, 2 hdc in the last st. Turn. (16 hdc)

Row 3: Ch 1, 2 hdc in the first st, hdc in each of the next 14 sts, 2 hdc in the last st. Turn. (18 hdc)

Row 4: Ch 1, hdc in each st across. Turn. (18 hdc)

Row 5: Ch 1, hdc2tog, hdc in each of the next 14 sts, hdc2tog. Turn. (16 hdc)

Row 6: Ch 1, hdc2tog, hdc in each of the next 12 sts, hdc2tog. Turn. (14 hdc)

Row 7: Ch 1, hdc2tog, hdc in each of the next 10 sts, hdc2tog. Turn. (12 hdc)

Row 8: Ch 1, sl st in the first st, sc in each of the next 2 sts, hdc in each of the next 6 sts, sc in each of the next 2 sts, sl st in the last st. Do not fasten off. (12 sts)

The shorter stitches at both ends of Row 8 help round the upper edge rather than leaving the pad with a straight rectangular top.

Edge the large paw pad

Ch 1. Rotate the piece so you can work down the nearest side edge.

Border R1: Work 1 sc in the end of each of Rows 8 through 2, 2 sc in the end of Row 1, 1 sc in each of the 14 unused foundation-chain loops across the lower edge, 2 sc in the opposite end of Row 1, 1 sc in the end of each of Rows 2 through 8, then 1 sc in each of the 12 stitches across Row 8. Join with a sl st to the first sc. (44 sc)

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. The finished pad should be broad across the lower half, widest around Rows 3–4, and gradually narrower toward its rounded top.

Toe pads — make four

Use the same dark-brown yarn and the same hook for all four toes. Work in joined rounds without turning.

Make an MR.

R1: Ch 1, work 6 hdc in the ring. Pull the ring closed and join with a sl st to the first hdc. (6 hdc)

R2: Ch 1, work 2 hdc in each st around. Join with a sl st to the first hdc. (12 hdc)

R3: Ch 1, [hdc in the next st, 2 hdc in the next st] × 6. Join with a sl st to the first hdc. (18 hdc)

R4: Ch 1, sc in each st around. Join with a sl st to the first sc. (18 sc)

Fasten off, leaving a long sewing tail. Repeat until you have exactly four matching toe pads.

The toes will initially look nearly circular. When you pin them to the square, gently stretch each one a little from top to bottom to create the softly oval shape of a paw toe. Keep the stretch subtle so the stitch rounds remain smooth.

Assembling the paw print

Lay the blocked square RS up with one edge positioned as the top. Arrange all five dark-brown pieces before sewing anything permanently.

Position the large pad

Center the large pad horizontally in the lower half of the square with Row 8 at the top. Leave approximately two visible bands of ivory crochet between the lower edge of the appliqué and the outer border. The pad should sit straight, with its broad lower edge parallel to the bottom of the square.

The top of the pad should reach slightly above the horizontal center of the square. Keep the whole appliqué centered on the square’s vertical centerline.

Position the four toes

Place two toe pads above the middle of the large pad. These center toes should sit slightly higher than the outer toes and should have only a narrow strip of ivory crochet between them. Keep their long direction vertical.

Place one remaining toe to the left and one to the right. Move each outer toe roughly half a toe-height lower than the two center toes and slightly outward. Their lower edges can sit approximately level with the upper corners of the large paw pad, but the pieces should remain clearly separated rather than touching.

Step back and check the silhouette before sewing. You should see a clear four-toe dog paw: two higher center toes, two slightly lower outer toes, and one broad rounded pad beneath them.

Sew the appliqués

Thread a dark-brown sewing tail onto a yarn needle. Beginning with the large paw pad, sew around the entire outer sc border using small whip stitches. Pass the needle through the edge of the dark piece and through the upper portion of the corresponding ivory stitches underneath.

Keep the sewing yarn snug enough to hold the appliqué flat, but do not pull so tightly that the ivory square puckers. Secure the tail on the wrong side and weave it through several nearby stitches.

Sew each of the four toe pads in the same way, working around the complete circumference. Preserve the small ivory gaps between all five dark pieces. These gaps are important because they keep the individual toes and the central pad visually distinct.

Finishing your square

Weave in any remaining ends on the wrong side. If the square has shifted during assembly, pin all four corners back into a square shape and lightly block it again.

Avoid pressing the paw pieces completely flat. Their slight thickness above the ivory background gives the design its dimensional appliqué appearance. Let the square dry fully before removing the pins.

Troubleshooting

• The square cups upward at the corners: the ch-2 corner spaces are probably being worked too tightly. Relax those chains and make sure all four corners contain the complete corner increase.
• The square ruffles along the sides: check that you have not accidentally worked extra dc between corners. R6 should contain 23 dc along each side between the corner spaces.
• The large pad looks too angular: avoid tightening the hdc2tog decreases. A relaxed decrease and the final sc border will soften the stepped row ends into a rounded outline.
• The four toes look noticeably different in size: confirm that every toe ends R3 with 18 hdc and R4 with 18 sc, and use the same tension for all four.
• The square puckers underneath the paw: the sewing stitches are too tight. Loosen the attachment seam so the appliqué lies against the surface without pulling the ivory fabric inward.

Making the square larger

If you want more ivory space around the paw, add another solid double-crochet round before the single-crochet border. Work the same corner formula of (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in each corner and one dc in every dc along each side.

One additional round after R6 will contain 108 dc and 4 ch-2 corner spaces, with 27 dc along each side between corner spaces. If you add this round, work the final border with 3 sc in each corner space and 1 sc in every dc around for a total of 120 sc.

Keep the paw pieces at their original size for a wider ivory margin, or use a heavier yarn and proportionally larger hook for the entire project if you want both the square and paw motif enlarged together.

Your finished square should have one clean ivory background, one broad central paw pad, and exactly four evenly constructed toe pads. If you make this dog paw granny square, feel free to share your finished project or leave a question if you run into trouble while assembling the appliqués.