This strawberry butterfly granny square pairs a warm cream background with four raised red wings, a deep berry-colored center body, tiny ivory seed stitches, and two little green leaf accents. The strawberry details stay concentrated on the wings, so the finished motif reads clearly as both a butterfly and a playful fruit-inspired design.
The cream square is worked first from the center outward. Each wing and the narrow butterfly body are crocheted separately, the seed and leaf details are embroidered onto the wings, and the pieces are then layered over the center of the square.
Project at a glance
| Skill level | Confident beginner |
|---|---|
| Terminology | US crochet terms |
| Construction | Center-out square with four separate wings and one separate body |
| Yarn | DK or light-worsted cotton or cotton blend |
| Hook | 3.5 mm crochet hook |
| Finished size | Usually about 5.5 to 6.5 inches square with the suggested yarn and hook |
Materials
- DK or light-worsted cotton yarn in warm cream for the square
- Small amount of strawberry-red yarn for all four wings
- Small amount of deep berry-red yarn for the butterfly body
- Small amount of ivory yarn or embroidery floss for the strawberry seeds
- Small amount of muted leaf-green yarn or embroidery floss for the tiny leaf accents
- 3.5 mm crochet hook
- Yarn needle
- Scissors
- Blocking mat and pins, optional
A smooth cotton or cotton-rich yarn works especially well because it gives the cream background clean definition and helps the small wing appliqués hold their shape. Keep the square, wings, and body in the same general yarn weight so the raised motif looks balanced rather than bulky.
Exact gauge is not critical for a decorative square. Aim for a firm but flexible fabric with stitches that remain easy to see. If the appliqués feel floppy or their edges lose definition, use a slightly smaller hook for the butterfly pieces.
Stitches and abbreviations
- ch — chain
- ch-sp — chain space
- dc — double crochet
- hdc — half double crochet
- sc — single crochet
- sl st — slip stitch
- st/sts — stitch/stitches
- RS — right side
- WS — wrong side
Before you start
The cream square is worked in joined rounds without turning. The beginning ch 3 counts as the first dc. The slip-stitch join does not count as a stitch, and every corner uses the same ch-2 space.
Each butterfly wing is crocheted around both sides of a short foundation chain. This gives the wings a visible center direction and lets the outside end become broader and rounder while the inner end stays narrow enough to tuck beneath the body.
Make and decorate all four wings before sewing them to the square. The body goes on last, covering the inner wing edges and creating a clean central join.
Crochet pattern
Warm cream square
With cream yarn, make a magic ring. Keep the RS facing you and do not turn.
R1: Ch 3, 2 dc in the ring, ch 2, [3 dc in the ring, ch 2] × 3. Pull the ring closed and join with a sl st to the top of the beginning ch 3. (12 dc, 4 ch-2 corner spaces)
To begin R2, sl st across the next 2 dc and into the next ch-2 corner space.
R2: Ch 3, 1 dc in the same corner space, ch 2, 2 dc in the same corner space, [1 dc in each of the next 3 dc, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in the next corner space] × 3, 1 dc in each of the final 3 dc. Join to the top of the beginning ch 3. (28 dc, 4 ch-2 corner spaces; 7 dc per side)
After each following round, sl st in the next dc and then into the next ch-2 corner space before beginning the new round.
R3: Ch 3, 1 dc in the same corner space, ch 2, 2 dc in the same space, [1 dc in each of the next 7 dc, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in the next corner space] × 3, 1 dc in each of the final 7 dc. Join. (44 dc, 4 ch-2 corner spaces; 11 dc per side)
R4: Move into the next corner. Ch 3, 1 dc in the same corner space, ch 2, 2 dc in the same space, [1 dc in each of the next 11 dc, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in the next corner space] × 3, 1 dc in each of the final 11 dc. Join. (60 dc, 4 ch-2 corner spaces; 15 dc per side)
R5: Move into the next corner. Ch 3, 1 dc in the same corner space, ch 2, 2 dc in the same space, [1 dc in each of the next 15 dc, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in the next corner space] × 3, 1 dc in each of the final 15 dc. Join. (76 dc, 4 ch-2 corner spaces; 19 dc per side)
R6: Move into the next corner. Ch 3, 1 dc in the same corner space, ch 2, 2 dc in the same space, [1 dc in each of the next 19 dc, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in the next corner space] × 3, 1 dc in each of the final 19 dc. Join. (92 dc, 4 ch-2 corner spaces; 23 dc per side)
R7: Move into the next corner. Ch 3, 1 dc in the same corner space, ch 2, 2 dc in the same space, [1 dc in each of the next 23 dc, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in the next corner space] × 3, 1 dc in each of the final 23 dc. Join. (108 dc, 4 ch-2 corner spaces; 27 dc per side)
Outer cream edging
Move into the next ch-2 corner space.
R8: Ch 1; this does not count as a stitch. Work 3 sc in the same corner space, 1 sc in each of the next 27 dc, [3 sc in the next ch-2 corner space, 1 sc in each of the next 27 dc] × 3. Join with a sl st to the first sc. Fasten off. (120 sc)
🧶 Checkpoint: Block the square before adding the butterfly. The four sides should be straight, the corners should remain open and relaxed, and the narrow sc edging should form one continuous outer line.
Large upper wings
Make two identical upper wings in strawberry red. Each wing begins at its narrow inner end and becomes widest around the far end of the foundation chain.
Ch 9.
R1: Beginning in the second ch from the hook, sl st in the first ch, sc in the next ch, hdc in the next ch, dc in each of the next 2 ch, hdc in the next ch, sc in the next ch, then work 5 hdc in the final ch.
Rotate the work and continue along the unused loops on the opposite side of the foundation chain: sc in the next ch, hdc in the next ch, dc in each of the next 2 ch, hdc in the next ch, sc in the next ch, sl st in the final ch. Join with a sl st to the first sl st. (19 sts)
R2: Ch 1; this does not count as a stitch. Sc in the same stitch as the join and in each of the next 8 stitches, work 2 sc in the next stitch at the center of the rounded outer tip, then sc in each of the remaining 9 stitches. Join with a sl st to the first sc. Fasten off, leaving a long sewing tail. (20 sc)
Gently shape the piece into a broad elongated teardrop. Keep the inner end narrow, the middle full, and the far end softly pointed and rounded like the top half of a strawberry rather than making the wing perfectly oval.
Repeat for the second upper wing.
Small lower wings
Make two identical lower wings in strawberry red. These use the same basic construction as the upper wings but are shorter, fuller, and noticeably more rounded.
Ch 7.
R1: Beginning in the second ch from the hook, sl st in the first ch, sc in the next ch, hdc in each of the next 2 ch, sc in the next ch, then work 5 hdc in the final ch.
Rotate the work and continue along the unused loops on the opposite side of the foundation chain: sc in the next ch, hdc in each of the next 2 ch, sc in the next ch, sl st in the final ch. Join with a sl st to the first sl st. (15 sts)
R2: Ch 1; this does not count as a stitch. Sc in the same stitch and in each of the next 6 stitches, work 2 sc in the next stitch at the center of the rounded tip, then sc in each of the remaining 7 stitches. Join with a sl st to the first sc. Fasten off, leaving a long sewing tail. (16 sc)
Finger-shape the lower wing into a compact rounded teardrop. Its outside edge should be broad and softly curved, while the inner edge narrows where it will disappear beneath the body.
Repeat for the second lower wing.
🧶 Checkpoint: Lay all four wings beside one another before decorating them. The upper pair should match each other, the lower pair should match each other, and the two upper wings should be visibly larger and longer than the lower pair.
Deep berry butterfly body
The body is a separate narrow oval that covers the inner edges of all four wings.
With deep berry-red yarn, ch 10.
R1: Beginning in the second ch from the hook, sc in that ch and in each of the next 7 ch, work 3 sc in the final ch. Rotate the work and continue along the unused loops on the opposite side of the foundation chain: sc in each of the next 7 ch, then work 2 sc in the remaining loop of the first foundation ch. Join with a sl st to the first sc. (20 sc)
R2: Ch 1; this does not count as a stitch. Sc in each stitch around. Join with a sl st to the first sc. Fasten off, leaving a long sewing tail. (20 sc)
Finger-shape the body into a narrow vertical oval with softly rounded ends. Keep it straight and compact rather than stretching it into a thin cord.
Add the strawberry details
Ivory seeds on the upper wings
Decorate both upper wings before attaching them to the square. Keep all embroidery inside the outer red edging so the wing outlines remain clean.
Using ivory yarn or embroidery floss, make eight short seed stitches on each upper wing. The seeds should form a loose handmade scatter across the broad red surface rather than precise rows.
Place one seed near the upper outer area, three through the upper-to-middle portion, three through the lower-middle portion, and one closer to the lower edge. Leave open red space between every seed.
Angle neighboring seeds in slightly different directions. Each mark should be a short raised dash resting visibly on the red crochet rather than a long embroidered line.
Keep the embroidery relaxed so the wing remains flat and the red stitches do not pucker.
Ivory seeds on the lower wings
Make three short ivory seed stitches on each lower wing.
Place one toward the upper or inner portion and two across the broader lower half. Keep the marks spaced well apart so the smaller wings do not become crowded.
Tiny green leaf accents
Add one tiny green strawberry-top accent to each upper wing only.
Unlike the body connection, these green accents sit in the upper outer half of the large wings, noticeably away from the central butterfly body. Place the left accent toward the upper-left area of the left wing and mirror it toward the upper-right area of the right wing.
With muted green yarn or embroidery floss, make three short stitches that meet at one base point: one stitch angles outward, one angles upward, and one angles inward. This creates the small three-pronged leafy sprig visible against the red wing.
Keep each green accent compact. It should occupy only a small patch of red crochet and remain clearly smaller than the surrounding field of ivory seed stitches.
Assembling the butterfly
Position the four wings
Lay the blocked square RS up and identify its vertical and horizontal centerlines.
Place the two large upper wings first. Their narrow inner ends should meet near the vertical centerline, while their broad pointed ends angle upward and outward. Think of the left upper wing pointing roughly toward 10 o’clock and the right wing toward 2 o’clock.
Place the two smaller lower wings below them. Their inner ends should meet near the same centerline, with their rounded outer ends pointing approximately toward 7:30 and 4:30.
Leave a narrow central strip of overlapping wing edges where the deep berry body will sit. The upper and lower wings may touch near the center, but their outer outlines should remain completely separate and easy to read.
The completed butterfly should fill a little more than half the visible width of the square while leaving a generous cream frame around all four sides.
Sew the wings
Beginning with one upper wing, thread its red sewing tail onto a yarn needle. Sew around the outer perimeter with small hidden stitches, catching the back portion of the red edging and the cream stitches beneath it.
Secure the inner end particularly well because it will sit beneath the body. Keep the seam relaxed along the broad outer edge so the wing retains a slight natural lift.
Repeat for the second upper wing and both lower wings. Check that the two upper wings mirror one another and that the lower wings sit at matching heights before weaving in the red tails.
Attach the body
Place the deep berry body vertically over the meeting point of the four wings. Center it on the square’s vertical centerline.
The upper portion of the body should cover the narrow inner ends of both large wings, while the lower portion covers the inner ends of the two smaller wings. Keep enough of each red wing visible that all four pieces remain clearly distinct.
Using the long berry-red tail, sew around the body close to its outer edge. Catch the wing fabric underneath where the body overlaps it and the cream square where the body extends between the wings.
Keep the body flat and straight while sewing. It should form one continuous central column with softly rounded ends rather than leaning toward either side.
Finishing your butterfly square
Weave all remaining yarn tails securely into the WS. Keep red and green tails inside similarly colored appliqué areas whenever possible before passing them through the cream background.
Finger-shape the two large upper wings so their pointed outer ends sweep gently upward. Shape the smaller lower wings so they remain rounder and angle slightly downward.
If the cream square needs a final adjustment, lightly mist only the background and pin the four outer corners and sides. Avoid stretching or flattening the butterfly pieces during blocking.
The finished motif should show four clearly separated strawberry-red wings, a narrow berry-colored body, eight irregular ivory seed marks on each upper wing, three seed marks on each lower wing, and one tiny green three-pronged leaf accent in the upper outer area of each large wing.
Troubleshooting
- The square cups at the corners: The ch-2 corner spaces are probably too tight. Work those chains more loosely so each round has enough room to turn.
- An upper wing looks too narrow: The foundation chain may be tight. Remake it more loosely so the hdc and dc stitches can spread into the broad elongated strawberry shape.
- The butterfly looks top-heavy: Check that the lower wings are positioned close enough to the body and angle outward rather than hanging straight down.
- The embroidered seeds pucker the wings: The ivory stitches are being pulled too tightly. Loosen them until they rest on the surface without compressing the red crochet.
- The green accents disappear beside the body: Move them farther outward and upward on the large wings. They belong in the upper outer portion of each wing rather than beside the central body.
Once the wings and body are securely attached, the square is ready to use on its own or alongside other fruit-inspired motifs. If you make one, feel free to share your finished butterfly or leave a question if you get stuck on any part of the pattern.
